I expected many things before my first Kenya safari — exciting early mornings of watching the bush come to life, endless landscapes, the kind of silence that feels cinematic. What I didn’t expect were the other elements that shaped the trip just as much: the astonishing birdlife, with more than 400 species; the sunsets that washed the skies in oranges, reds, and purples; and the sheer vastness of the plains. From a distance, even elephants looked impossibly small. And somehow, “just one more game drive” quickly became an obsession, every outing fuelled by the hope of spotting another predator.

What’s the best way to travel around Kenya?

For this trip, we experienced three very different modes of transport, each offering its own unique perspective of Kenya.

BY ROAD: Rather than flying straight into the Maasai Mara National Reserve, we chose to travel by road from Nairobi — a journey of around five hours that took us from the bustle of the city, through rural villages, across the escarpment and eventually to the gates of the reserve itself. Driving through the countryside gave us a real glimpse into everyday Kenyan life — from roadside stalls selling mangos and potatoes, to young Maasai boys, no older than ten, herding goats, sheep and cattle along the roadside.

BY PLANE: After our safari, we swapped road travel for a light aircraft flight from the Mara back to Wilson Airport in Nairobi before continuing on to Diani on the south coast.

The light aircraft experience is all part of the adventure. The planes are small, compact and at times a little cramped, but the views over the plains are incredible and the convenience is unbeatable — reducing to just over an hour in the air.

One thing to know in advance, however, is that luggage restrictions are taken very seriously on these flights. Bags must be soft-sided duffel style luggage, with a maximum weight of 15kg including hand luggage. While there’s usually a little flexibility on bag dimensions, hard-shell suitcases will not be accepted.

Most camps offer laundry services, so there’s no need to overpack. In fact, for an entire week away, I was quite impressed that I managed to keep my luggage down to just 9kg.

BY RAIL: Lastly, we travelled from Mombasa back to Nairobi on the Madaraka Express — a rail journey of just over five hours that turned out to be rather relaxing.

The train offers a completely different perspective of Kenya and, surprisingly, still plenty of opportunities for wildlife spotting as it passes through Tsavo National Park. From the comfort of our seats, we spotted monkeys, eland, zebra and even elephants along the way, making the journey feel like an extension of the safari itself.

We travelled in Premium Class, which felt very similar to a business class airline cabin, with spacious reclining pod-style seating, personal TV screens and a freshly served hot meal included. It was a wonderfully comfortable and scenic way to return to Nairobi.

What’s it like travelling in the rainy season in Kenya?

Travelling in April — during Kenya’s “long rains” season — also gave us a very different perspective of the country. Kenya has two rainy seasons: the long rains from mid-March to the end of May, and the shorter rains during November and early December.

The heavy rains earlier in the season had clearly taken their toll on some of the roads, but despite travelling during “wet season”, the weather was actually wonderful. Most days were warm, sunny and around 26°C, with the bush transformed into a lush green landscape. Birdlife at this time of year is exceptional too, making it a fantastic time for keen photographers and birders.

In fact, we only experienced one proper downpour during the entire trip — around 20 minutes of dramatic thunder and rain while sitting under canvas at camp — and honestly, it only added to the magic of the experience.

The drier months over peak season between July – October the bush changes, the lush green grasses turn golden as the herds of zebra and wildbeest arrive to graze. Days can be warm but early mornings and evenings still chilly. This is a great time to head to the coast after your safari!

Where should I stay in the Masai Mara?

What I quickly realised is that Kenya safari travel feels very different to southern Africa safaris. The scale of the landscapes, the culture, the conservancy model and the sheer density of wildlife create something incredibly special.

One of the things that makes the Maasai Mara National Reserve so unique is that you have the choice between staying inside the National Park itself or within one of the surrounding conservancies. Importantly, there are no fences between these areas, meaning wildlife moves freely throughout the ecosystem. However, the safari experience between the two can feel different, so understanding the differences will help you decide which option is right for you.

Conservancies:

• Community own areas located on the outskirts of the Masai Mara
• Excellent Game Viewing however you are situated further away from the river crossings during migration season (July – October).
• Flexible activities including off-roading, night drives, guided safari walks and cultural experiences
• Conservancy fees are lower and rates depend on the conservancy itself.
• Camps to consider: Instinct of the Mara, Cottars 1920’s, Kandili Camp and Spekes Camp.

The Masai Mara National Park:

• You are based right in the heart of the action, however during mirgration season this can lead to traffic, however some camps can offer access to the quieter areas such as the Mara Triangle.
• Being within the park you can easily access the Mara River for both wildlife viewing, migration crossings in season as well as excellent birding.
• Activities are more limited here – so focus is very much on wildlife viewing, however cultural visits and hot air ballooning can be arranged.
• Park fees are higher and camps inside the reserve also carry a nightly bed levy fee.
• Camps to consider: Roca River Camp and Naibor Tented Camp

What’s a typical day like on safari in Kenya?

Several camps we visited offered exclusive vehicle use which is a huge benefit.

Having a private vehicle completely changes the pace and flexibility of your safari experience, allowing you to tailor each day around exactly how you want to spend your time. Rather than following a fixed camp schedule, your guide can help curate the day based on your interests, energy levels and what wildlife activity has been happening nearby.

For early risers, that might mean leaving camp at 6:00am to catch sunrise over the plains, with coffee in hand as the bush slowly comes to life around you. Often this is followed by a picnic breakfast out in the wilderness before returning to camp for lunch and a relaxed afternoon by the pool or in your tent.

Alternatively, safari doesn’t always have to mean pre-dawn starts. Some mornings we chose to enjoy a slower pace — waking naturally, enjoying a leisurely breakfast in camp and then heading out later for a full day of game viewing with a picnic lunch along the way, returning just in time for dinner beneath the stars.

If you’re staying within one of the conservancies, the experience becomes even more varied thanks to the additional activities permitted outside the National Park rules.

What should I tip on safari in Kenya?

Tipping is probably one of the questions we’re asked most often when it comes to safari travel. Whilst tipping is never strictly expected, it is very much the norm across Kenya safari camps and lodges, and genuinely appreciated by the staff.

Many camp employees receive accommodation and meals as part of their overall package, meaning salaries can be relatively modest. Additional gratuities therefore make a meaningful difference and are always warmly received.

In most camps, tipping is split into two parts:

• a communal staff tip box shared between housekeeping, kitchen, waiting and general camp staff
• a separate tip given directly to your safari guide and tracker

These are usually done at the end of your stay. Most camps provide envelopes within your tent or room, or these can easily be requested from reception if needed. Tips can be given in either:

• US dollars
• Kenyan shillings

As a general guideline, we’d suggest:

• approximately $25 USD per tent, per day for camp staff collectively
• approximately $25 USD per tent, per day for your guide and/or tracker

Of course, this is simply intended as a guide and should always reflect your own experience, trip length and level of service received.

Do I have to take malaria pills to go on safari in Kenya?

One of the biggest misconceptions about travelling to Kenya is that the entire country is considered a high malaria risk area — but this isn’t the case.

Incredibly, the Maasai Mara National Reserve itself is generally considered no risk for malaria due to it being eradicated, and many of Kenya’s higher-lying safari regions, such as Samburu National Reserve and the Laikipia conservancies, are also regarded as lower risk areas due to altitude.

The Kenyan coast, however — including destinations such as Diani Beach and Mombasa — is considered a malaria area, so precautions are usually advised when visiting this part of the country.

That said, health advice should always be personal to you and your itinerary, which is why we strongly recommend speaking with your GP or a specialist travel clinic around 8–10 weeks prior to departure to discuss your own individual requirements.

For travel to Kenya, you may also be advised to ensure your routine travel vaccinations are up to date, including:

• Yellow Fever
• Tetanus
• Hepatitis A
• Typhoid

A Yellow Fever vaccination certificate may also be required depending on where you are travelling from or transiting through. The vaccine itself now provides lifetime coverage in most cases.

Some travellers may require boosters depending on when previous vaccinations were administered, which is another reason why arranging your appointment well in advance is important.

Beyond vaccinations, the usual safari health precautions still apply:

• using insect repellent
• staying hydrated – drinking bottled filtered water only
• wearing longer sleeves in the evenings
• and taking sensible sun protection seriously during game drives

Most safari camps are extremely well prepared and will often provide mosquito repellent, mosquito nets and escorted walks back to your tent after dark.

About the author

Amy Wheeler - Africa Specialist