A First-Time Guide to Tanzania’s Northern Circuit Safari
Exploring Tarangire, Ngorongoro & The Serengeti

For many years, I had longed to visit the legendary National Parks of Tanzania. Names such as the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater are woven into so many of our childhood memories through wildlife documentaries and iconic photography. After a cancelled trip during Covid, it took five years for the opportunity to arise again, and in November I finally set off on a more remote, classic style of safari — mobile tented camps, pop-up vehicles and long overland journeys — a world away from the more polished lodge safaris and open vehicles often associated with South Africa. Here, safari — meaning “journey” in Swahili — truly feels like an expedition.

After an unexpected delay in Nairobi (during which I became usefully familiar with the airport lounges!) we eventually arrived in Arusha, nestled beneath the dramatic slopes of Mount Meru. Here we met our driver-guide, who would accompany us throughout the journey, and settled into the sturdy 4×4 that would serve not only as our transport between camps, but also as our game drive vehicle. Sliding windows and a pop-up roof proved invaluable for wildlife viewing, particularly when insects were circling and essentials such as binoculars or water bottles never had to be retrieved from the vehicle. 

Our first stop was Tarangire National Park, renowned for its ancient baobab trees and large elephant herds. Before even reaching camp, however, we found ourselves navigating through vast numbers of wildebeest on the drive to Ndovu Tented Camp. The experience perfectly set the tone for the adventure ahead. After a delicious dinner and fireside drinks with the camp team beneath the stars, we retired to surprisingly comfortable tents complete with flushing toilets and hot showers — perhaps not quite as wild as expected after all.

The following morning brought our first proper game drive, with elephants gathering near the riverbanks and lionesses resting in the long grass, before continuing onwards to Lake Manyara. Although only a brief stop, the lake’s scenery was beautiful and we spent time watching large troops of baboons moving noisily through the forest, entirely unconcerned by our presence.

By evening we had reached the rim of the Ngorongoro Crater, arriving at Lions Paw in time for sundowners overlooking one of Africa’s most extraordinary landscapes. The following morning, staying on the crater rim proved a real advantage, allowing us to descend early before many of the vehicles arrived. As the day warmed, wildlife gradually emerged from the crater walls and sightings were exceptional. I had never seen so many spotted hyenas — part of a population long studied by researchers — and we also experienced a particularly memorable encounter when a pride of lions who chose to rest in the shade beside our vehicle, including one male who decided our pop-up was worthy of marking. At that moment, the sliding windows felt both reassuring and handy!

From Ngorongoro, we continued onwards into the Serengeti National Park. The drive is long, dusty and undeniably bumpy, passing Maasai settlements and seemingly endless landscapes. When the migration moves further north, many travellers opt to fly onwards from the crater region, but travelling overland allows you to remain with your guide and experience the gradual transition between ecosystems. For me, the Central Serengeti was unexpectedly one of the most beautiful areas of the journey, with granite kopjes rising above riverine forests before opening onto the vast golden plains for which the park is so famous.  Wildlife encounters here were unforgettable. We watched a tree-climbing lion sleeping lazily in the branches of a sausage tree, whilst in another location a cheetah calmly used the roof of our vehicle as a viewing platform to survey the plains beyond.

Our final road journey took us to the Northern Serengeti, best known for the dramatic river crossings of the Great Migration during July and August, and again in October as the herds begin their journey south.  For further information read our useful blog.  Although the migration had largely moved on during our visit, the quieter landscape brought a wonderful sense of peace. While staying at Kaskaz Mara Camp we still enjoyed excellent sightings, including elephant, hyena and bat-eared foxes, as well as visits to several crossing points where enormous crocodiles basked motionless along the riverbanks.

Returning to Arusha, we spent a final night at River Trees, a charming and tranquil property set amongst beautiful gardens. Even here, Tanzania delivered one last wildlife encounter, as monkeys bounded noisily across the roof above my room during an attempted afternoon nap, leaping through the trees like children in a playground.

Many travellers choose to end a Tanzanian safari with time on the island of Zanzibar, and having visited earlier in the year, I would thoroughly recommend combining the two. Beyond its beautiful beaches, Zanzibar has a fascinating cultural history, with indigenous African roots intertwined with Persian and European influences, warm and welcoming local communities, and extraordinary ocean views where the changing tides create constantly shifting shades of turquoise and blue. Historic Stone Town is also well worth exploring, with its labyrinth of narrow alleyways and carved wooden doors offering a fascinating glimpse into Zanzibar’s rich trading history. Particularly poignant is the deeply moving exhibition at the former slave market beside the Anglican Cathedral, which provides powerful insight into one of the island’s darkest chapters.

Thirty years after my first visit to Africa, the continent continues to amaze and inspire me. Its extraordinary biodiversity, vast landscapes and genuine warmth leave a lasting impression every time I return. Safari is certainly not the least expensive style of travel, but East Africa offers some of the most authentic and rewarding wildlife experiences in the world. Importantly, the park fees and conservation contributions made by visitors also play a vital role in protecting these remarkable wilderness areas for future generations.

About the author

Abi Shaw - Bushbaby founder and avid explorer!